The Camargue is a region formed around the river delta of the Rhone river. Consequently it is very flat, very marshy and windswept. It is a big area for cattle farming and also traditionaly bull fighting. These are the special white Camargue houses. We are in the seaside town of Saintes-Maries de-la-Mer. This is the main church which is built like a fortified castle because in the old days they were regularly raided by pirates. There is a very strong Spanish influence here. Every restaurant in town features paella on their menu.
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We are now in Marseille. Well actually anchored by a small island out from the city. It has turned very cold here. We have gone from togs and nothing else to long trousers and sweatshirts. And the sea has become very cold, down from 26 to about 17 degrees. No swimming for us. This is the old harbour at La Ciotat which is about half way between Toulon and Marseille. We stopped there for a night, a very pretty seaside town. This is an old prison island outside Marseille which was the setting for the novel The Count of Monte Cristo. These islands are amazing. So remote feeling yet only a mile or two from the city. They used to be military so there are lots of old forts etc to explore. Our home for tonight. There are lots of little bays around the islands so lots of room for anchoring.
We left Corsica a couple of days ago and sailed the 140 miles to Toulon, taking about 24 hours. We had to motor most of the way as there was not much wind. Toulon is set within a very pretty natural harbour and we spent the first couple of nights anchored in the outer harbour. There are lots of good anchorages here. Toulon is a base for the French navy and the are alot of naval fortifications, both modern and historic, around the harbour. The last two days have been very windy so we have treated ourselves to a marina so that we can explore the city. Today (Saturday morning) was market day in downtown Toulon. The whole of the central city was full of market stalls selling everything. Toulon is also a big rugby town. There have been quite a number of ex All Blacks who have gone to play for Toulon at the end of their rugby career. It is quite good being a New Zealander in Toulon.
This is Bonifacio, one of the main towns on the island. It is built right on the cliff edge. As you can see the cliff has been undercut by the sea. It is very dramatic to look at but there is no way I would live there. A lovely little bay that we have visited a few times. Very clear water and lots of little fish. Throughout the Med there is much concern about the disappearance of the seagrass beds. These form the basis of the foodchain, so no seagrass = no fish. This beach was heaped high with dead seagrass. A real example of the problem. Further along the beach more dead seagrass piled up in great mounds. We have spent quite a bit of time anchored in Porto Vecchio because it is a safe anchorage and an interesting town. However no anchorage is completly safe.........
Since our visitors left we have been pottering about visiting some of the many lovely anchorages of Corsica. It is peek season here and there are heaps of boats but there are lots of big wide bays to anchor in so there is always lots of room. The coastline is mainly made up of rocky headlands with large sandy beaches in between. It's all very lovely. We plan to muck about around here for a few more weeks then head for Spain about the beginning of September. I have been trying for ages to think of a good caption for this photo. Something to do with 4 housepower, but it's just not coming to me. Suggestions welcome.
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October 2019
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