It's been a few days since my last post. We haven't been doing very exciting things, just poking about in the islands of Kastos and Kalamos, and the little towns. This was one of our anchorages, very quiet and secure. It got a bit windy that night and lots of boats had an uncomfortable night, but we were fine. It's peak season now so you have to pick where you go. This little harbour (Kastos) is popular with the charter fleet. We counted over 100 yachts in the harbour or anchored outside. We were in a bay 2 miles down the coast, with 6 other yachts. And here is a photo for Kelvin, by special request.
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We tend to think of New Zealand as a small country but if you compare us to Greece, or indeed many European nations we are quite large, in terms of land area. I think it's because we are used to looking at ourselves next to Australia, which is unreasonably large. What we are lacking, in comparison to most other countries, is people. But that is not a bad thing. Amanda thought this shot was amusing. We were motoring along with no wind so I was doing a bit of stainless steel polishing, as well as keeping watch. Very practical use of time I say. Here is Amanda casually relaxing by the sea. Doesn't she look fab.
After finally peeling ourselves off the dock at the free marina we have been slowly making our way northish. We have been in this area before so our challenge is to find places we haven't visited previously. It is so good to be back in Greece. We really love the people, the culture, the wine, the food and the places we get to visit. We are currently in Poros, a little town on the coast of Kefalonia. We are in the harbour. In this photo you can see our new boom tent. This keeps the sun off the boat and makes an amazing difference in keeping the boat cool. Also featured is Amanda walking the plank.
Since arriving in Greece we haven't gone anywhere. We are still hanging out in the abandoned marina. If anyone is looking for a fixer-upper boat there are lots to choose from here. From the marina it is a short bike ride over the bridge to town. On the south side of the bridge is a turtle sanctuary. There are also lots of big turtles in the marina. I have been trying to get a photo of one but so far they have not been cooperating. We also needed to replace our batteries. These power our instruments and most importantly the fridge, so quite important. The old ones were on the boat when we bought it, so slightly overdue for replacement. We found a battery shop in town and they delivered them the next day, great service.
Today is a bit windy but we might go somewhere the tomorrow. Unlike most countries in Europe you are required to check in on arrival, even if you have sailed from another EU country. Here was our experience:
The first step is to find the port police office which was handily near the port. We found their office and started the process. However, to pay the fee you need to go to the tax office. We found that and were told to go to room 11 on the first floor. A bit of a queue here so after 20 minutes it was our turn and we were told to go to room 12. In room 12 we were told to go to room 13. In room 13 after a short wait the person filled in a form, but to actually pay we went back to room 12. Paid the fee (€50) in room 12 then back to the port police office. Lots of form filling here and then, there is another fee to pay, the port police fee. But you don't pay the port police fee in the port police office, you have to go to another building. After being redirected another couple of times we paid this fee at a little shed (€15) and then back to the port police office. We then completed the paperwork and saints be praised we were finished. A long process but not our first time so we knew what to expect. All part of the rich tapestry of life. And all the officials we dealt with were very nice, they just work there, they didn't invent the process. So the secret is relax, set aside the day and enjoy the experience, you are after all entering one of the loveliest countries on earth. Oh and I didn't mention the new, additional on-line process (and fee) that you also have to do, which isn't straightforward but that's a whole other blog. Just arrived after 43 hours sailing from Sicily. It would have been quicker but we had to slow down to avoid coming into the harbour in the dark. We are in Agostoli, Kefalonia.
Day one was light winds from every direction so lots of motoring. Day two was lots of wind (20 knots) on the beam so great sailing. We are parked in an abandoned marina opposite the town. Next step is to have a sleep then go over to check in with the authorities. Will report further once we feel human again. We are hanging out in Siracusa, Sicily waiting to do our crossing to Greece. Greece has introduced a monthly cruising fee so we are timing our arrival so we don't have to pay for July. Siracusa is another very historic city that has been fought over and occupied by everyone and his mate. They have lots of ornate buildings for the tourists viewing pleasure. They even have a statue of Santa Claus. This is our next big hop. Two days and nights across to Greece, about 260 nautical miles by the time we get into the harbour. The forecast is looking good for tomorrow so hopefully our next blog will be Yassou from Greece.
The sun is setting on our time in Malta and tomorrow we will sail back to Sicily. We have enjoyed our time here, it's been a different experience. The thing about Malta is it's very small. You could fit Malta into lake Taupo twice over, or once and still have room for fishing. They speak English which is handy, and they have great pie shops. The people are very friendly. Malta is one of the most densely populated countries on earth, there are about half a million inhabitants. There are very few beaches, but lots of opportunities to jump off rocks (into the sea). Here are a few last photos. Can you spot Amanda. Traditional Maltese fishing boats.
As I sit here writing this blog (10pm) the Malta party boat has just shown up and anchored nearby. Feels like a fitting goodbye to our visit to Malta. One of the popular things to do in Valletta is to do a harbour cruise to see all the historic stuff. As we happen to have our own boat we did our own tour and then anchored for the night near the harbour entrance. Very nice looking over the lights of the city. From there we went down to the eastern end of the island and parked in a lovely bay with no habitation. It was quite busy during the day with local boats coming and going. But about 6pm they all began to depart and we were soon left to enjoy the quiet, peaceful bay to ourselves, fabulous. Until about 9pm when these guys turned up. Introducing the Malta party boat. Full of drunk people and with very, very loud thumpy-thumpy music blasting away. Also featuring a very cool DJ who mostly invites you to "put your hands up in the air, put your hands up ..... in the air".
They stayed till about 11.30. It was great. Valletta is the capital city and main port of Malta. We are staying at the Royal Malta Yacht Club as befits our station. Valletta is a very historic place full of old fortifications and other grand buildings. Google "the great siege of Malta 1565" to get the full story. Lots and lots of churches. Apparently one church for every 1000 people. There have been fireworks every night we have been here. During the day ones that specialise in making a very loud bang and at night the more familiar light show variety. This is one if the famous forts from the great siege (have you done your homework yet?) We caught the little tourist train to see the sights. One always looks very cool riding around in these things. In the evenings all the locals come down to the harbour and sit around in groups and eat and talk. We have seen this everywhere, also on Gozo. So we did it too. A very pleasant social way to spend an evening, better than shut inside watching the telly.
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October 2019
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